01
Highly Advanced
Hand-Weaving Techniques
According to the Textile Dictionary (Textile Bureau, Ministry of International Trade and Industry), "Kameaya is a type of silk fabric, a raw fabric in which the weft threads are woven tightly to create a sheath-shaped twill pattern. After weaving, the starch is removed and the fabric is refined." Also, according to the Primary Color Dyeing and Weaving Dictionary (Tankosha), "since the Tenwa era (1681-1684), the silk twill fabric that began to be woven in Nishijin has been called kameaya [(加女綾 in reference to the traditionally female weaving artisans) but evolved to be referred to as kameaya (亀綾 a name of the same pronunciation, but referring to the woven pattern resembling tortoise-shells.]"
Kameayaori is understood to be a fairly sophisticated fabric based on a twill weave, with variations in patterns such as yamagata, hishigata, chûya, and modifications upon those combinations.
In normal flat weave, one warp thread and one weft thread are alternately crossed, so the thread structure is mainly composed of vertical (warp) and horizontal (weft) threads. However, in Kameayaori, all threads are diagonally crossed. This is due to the "twill weave" technique, in which the warp and weft threads are crossed at an angle.
A simple twill weave consists of three or more warp and weft threads used to cross each other, but in Kameayaori, there are several combinations of dozen threads. The fabric pattern is created by stepping on treadles underfoot in sequence, thus it requires much more advanced concentration and weaving techniques than flat weaving.
These techniques differ from the linen, cotton, and tsumugi fabrics that would have been produced traditionally, and were traditionally introduced from areas such as Kyoto and Kiryu, locations with a rich textile history and developed weaving techniques.
Because the fabric is woven using thin raw silk and very strong weaving force, it takes at least a full day for an expert to weave 20-30cm. To weave a single bolt of kimono or obi fabric, it takes about four months from planning to completion, including work such as starching the threads.
02
An Exquisite Texture Achieved
Through “Post-Degumming”
A main characteristic of Kameayaori is that it is traditionally woven using untwisted raw silk.
This is a type of fabric called a “post-degummed” fabric, which is woven with the starch glue (sericin) still coating the silk threads, and then degummed after the fabric is woven to remove it. The degumming process after weaving makes the warp and weft threads plump, resulting in a fabric with a unique texture and luster that feels lighter than it appears.
Kameayaori’s main features are its soft texture, elegant luster, and supple feel, which are achieved by the "refining" process, which involves washing away impurities after weaving.
03
A Multitude of
Restored Woven Patterns
At its peak, over 30 different types of Kameayaori were woven, but currently there are few historical clues to help us determine what kind of fabric they were, so it is difficult to determine the exact number with certainty. In historical texts, names such as sayagatahishi, ajiroori, kamokameori, and yatsuhashiori remain. These appear to have been names derived from differences in the weaving method (the way the warp and weft are braided, or the structure).
From the Bunsei era of the Edo period, Kameayaori was promoted as a specialty product of the Shinjo domain, but production was temporarily suspended due to the loss of tools during the fires of the Boshin War. Although revival attempts were made through the establishment of vocational schools, production of Kameayaori eventually ceased at the end of the Meiji period, earning it the moniker “The Mythical Textile.”
As part of the Mogami Model Settlement Area project launched in the 1980s, further attempts were made to restore the weaving methods of "Shinjo Kameayaori," a local specialty of the Mogami Region. Through research into remnant fabrics and historical weaving texts, over 10 types of weaving were restored, including the traditional pattern sayagata. Currently, the Traditional Culture Association is attempting to further restore traditional weaving patterns while adding new interpretations based on documents believed to have been produced around the Taisho period.
Until recently, only small items made from Kameayaori fabric had been commercialized. Unfortunately since its establishment, the number of weavers at the Association has dwindled from 10 to 3. In the future, the Association plans to increase its staff so that the weavers can concentrate on their weaving tasks and projects. The Association is also currently accepting reservations for the production of custom bolts of kimono or obi fabric made-to-order.
04
Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Shinjo City, Yamagata Prefecture
Currently, "Shinjo Kameayaori" is registered as an intangible folk cultural property of Shinjo City, Yamagata Prefecture (registered in 2020).
As a specialty product deeply rooted in Shinjo’s history, Kameayaori is popular as a souvenir, gift, or thank-you gift for hometown tax donations.
Characteristics of Shinjo Kameayaori
01
Handwoven Using Advanced Weaving Techniques
02
An Exquisite Texture Achieved Through the “Post-Degumming” Process
03
A Multitude of Restored Woven Patterns
04
Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Shinjo City, Yamagata Prefecture
Implementation of
Advanced Weaving Techniques
According to the Textile Dictionary (Textile Bureau, Ministry of International Trade and Industry), "Kameaya is a type of silk fabric, a raw fabric in which the weft threads are woven tightly to create a sheath-shaped twill pattern. After weaving, the starch is removed and the fabric is refined." Also, according to the Primary Color Dyeing and Weaving Dictionary (Tankosha), "since the Tenwa era (1681-1684), the silk twill fabric that began to be woven in Nishijin has been called kameaya [(加女綾 in reference to the traditionally female weaving artisans) but evolved to be referred to as kameaya (亀綾 a name of the same pronunciation, but referring to the woven pattern resembling tortoise-shells.]"
Kameayaori is understood to be a fairly sophisticated fabric based on a twill weave, with variations in patterns such as yamagata, hishigata, chûya, and modifications upon those combinations.
In normal flat weave, one warp thread and one weft thread are alternately crossed, so the thread structure is mainly composed of vertical (warp) and horizontal (weft) threads. However, in Kameayaori, all threads are diagonally crossed. This is due to the "twill weave" technique, in which the warp and weft threads are crossed at an angle.
A simple twill weave consists of three or more warp and weft threads used to cross each other, but Kameayaori, there are several combinations of dozens of threads. The fabric pattern is created by stepping on treadles underfoot in sequence, thus it requires much more advanced concentration and weaving techniques than flat weaving.
These techniques differ from the linen, cotton, and tsumugi fabrics that would have been produced traditionally, and were traditionally introduced from areas such as Kyoto and Kiryu, locations with a rich textile history and developed weaving techniques.
Because the fabric is woven using thin raw silk and very strong weaving force, it takes at least a full day for an expert to weave 20-30cm. To weave a single bolt of kimono or obi fabric, it takes at least four months from planning to completion, including work such as starching the threads.
An Exquisite Texture Achieved
Through the “Post-Degumming” Process
A main characteristic of Kameayaori is that it is traditionally woven using untwisted raw silk.
This is a type of fabric called a “post-degummed” fabric, which is woven with the starch glue (sericin) still coating the silk threads, and then degummed after the fabric is woven to remove it. The degumming process after weaving makes the warp and weft threads plump, resulting in a fabric with a unique texture and luster that feels lighter than it appears.
Kameayaori’s main features are its soft texture, elegant luster, and supple feel, which are achieved by the "refining" process, which involves washing away impurities after weaving.
A Multitude of
Restored Woven Patterns
At its peak, over 30 different types of Kameayaori were woven, but currently there are few historical clues to help us determine what kind of fabric they were, so it is difficult to determine the exact number with certainty. In historical texts, names such as sayagatahishi, ajiroori, kamokameori, and yatsuhashiori remain. These appear to have been names derived from differences in the weaving method (the way the warp and weft are braided, or the structure).
From the Bunsei era of the Edo period, Kameayaori was promoted as a specialty product of the Shinjo domain, but production was temporarily suspended due to the loss of tools during the fires of the Boshin War. Although revival attempts were made through the establishment of vocational schools, production of Kameayaori eventually ceased at the end of the Meiji period, earning it the moniker “The Mythical Textile.”
As part of the Mogami Model Settlement Area project launched in the 1980s, further attempts were made to restore the weaving methods of "Shinjo Kameayaori," a local specialty of the Mogami Region. Through research into remnant fabrics and historical weaving texts, over 10 types of weaving were restored, including the traditional pattern sayagata.
Currently, the Traditional Culture Association is attempting to further restore traditional weaving patterns while adding new interpretations based on documents believed to have been produced around the Taisho period.
Until recently, only small items made from Kameayaori fabric had been commercialized. Unfortunately since its establishment, the number of weavers at the Association has dwindled from 10 to 3. In the future, the Association plans to increase its staff so that the weavers can concentrate on their weaving tasks and projects. The Association is also currently accepting reservations for the production of custom bolts of kimono or obi fabric made-to-order.
Intangible Folk Cultural Property of
Shinjo City, Yamagata Prefecture
Currently, "Shinjo Kameayaori" is registered as an intangible folk cultural property of Shinjo City, Yamagata Prefecture (registered in 2020).
As a specialty product deeply rooted in Shinjo’s history, Kameayaori is popular as a souvenir, gift, or thank-you gift for hometown tax donations.
Click on the images above to go to the product information page.
Characteristics of Shinjo Kameayaori
According to the Textile Dictionary (Textile Bureau, Ministry of International Trade and Industry), "Kameaya is a type of silk fabric, a raw fabric in which the weft threads are woven tightly to create a sheath-shaped twill pattern. After weaving, the starch is removed and the fabric is refined." Also, according to the Primary Color Dyeing and Weaving Dictionary (Tankosha), "since the Tenwa era (1681-1684), the silk twill fabric that began to be woven in Nishijin has been called kameaya [(加女綾 in reference to the traditionally female weaving artisans) but evolved to be referred to as kameaya (亀綾 a name of the same pronunciation, but referring to the woven pattern resembling tortoise-shells.]"
Kameayaori is understood to be a fairly sophisticated fabric based on a twill weave, with variations in patterns such as yamagata, hishigata, chûya, and modifications upon those combinations.
In normal flat weave, one warp thread and one weft thread are alternately crossed, so the thread structure is mainly composed of vertical (warp) and horizontal (weft) threads. However, in Kameayaori, all threads are diagonally crossed. This is due to the "twill weave" technique, in which the warp and weft threads are crossed at an angle.
A simple twill weave consists of three or more warp and weft threads used to cross each other, but in Kameayaori, there are several combinations of dozens of threads. The fabric pattern is created by stepping on treadles underfoot in sequence, thus it requires much more advanced concentration and weaving techniques than flat weaving.
These techniques differ from the linen, cotton, and tsumugi fabrics that would have been produced traditionally, and were traditionally introduced from areas such as Kyoto and Kiryu, locations with a rich textile history and developed weaving techniques.
Because the fabric is woven using thin raw silk and very strong weaving force, it takes at least a full day for an expert to weave 20-30cm. To weave a single bolt of kimono or obi fabric, it takes about four months from planning to completion, including work such as starching the threads.
The above is based on "Survey on the development of local specialties in the Mogami Model Settlement Area - Report on the survey to support the promotion of the model settlement area" (1982, Yamagata Prefecture Planning and Coordination Department) and other materials.
The characteristics of the restored Kameyaori weaving style are exactly as described above. One of its major features is its soft texture, elegant luster, and supple feel, which are achieved through a refinement process in which the woven material is slowly boiled in an alkaline solution and impurities are washed away.
Another major feature is the unique weaving method known as "twill weave," which results in a detailed woven pattern. Normal flat weave is woven by alternately crossing one warp thread and one weft thread, resulting in a vertical and horizontal thread structure. In contrast, all Kameyaori fabrics are constructed diagonally due to the "twill weave" technique, which weaves the warp and weft threads so that the points at which they cross are diagonal. Furthermore, three or more warp and weft threads are used for crossing, and by stepping on treadles underfoot in sequence, the woven pattern is created. Because of this complexity, weaving Kameayaori requires highly advanced weaving techniques and immense concentration.
Because it is woven with thin silk threads and requires extremely meticulous work, it takes at least a full day to weave 10 centimeters, and one bolt of kimono fabric can easily take about one to one and a half years. Until recently, only small accessories have been commercialized using Kameayaori fabric. From the roughly 10 weavers who were present at the time of the Association's founding, only about 3-4 of the original staff remain, and this staff was left unable to completely devote time to weaving in addition to managing the production of small accessories and the "Ori Nagaya Weaving Tenement House." In the future, the Traditional Cultural Association plans to increase its staff so that the weavers can focus solely on weaving. The Association also accepts reservations for a bolt of kimono or obi fabric made-to-order and currently aims to increase fabric bolt production.
Due to a labor shortage, the Traditional Cultural Association has also made attempts to mechanize the weaving process, but the resulting texture differed very greatly from the supple and luxurious texture that Shinjo Kameayaori is known for. Although mechanized weaving does wonders for speed and ease of production, it still is unable to compete with the wonders of advanced hand-weaving techniques and the beauty of traditional hand-woven Shinjo Kameayaori.