In normal flat weave, one warp thread and one weft thread are alternately woven, so the thread structure is composed of intercrossed vertical and horizontal threads. In contrast, Kameayaori is woven using a method called “twill weave,” where the thread structure is arranged diagonally.

Three or more warp and weft threads are used to intersect each other, and some Kameayaori weaving patterns have dozens of threads in a variety of complex combinations.

The woven pattern is created by stepping on the treadles underfoot in sequence, which requires highly advanced weaving techniques and immense concentration.

Because the fabric is woven using thin raw silk and very strong weaving force, it takes at least a full day for an expert to weave 20-30cm. To weave a single bolt of kimono fabric, it can take about four months from planning to completion, including work such as starching the threads.

A main characteristic of Kameayaori is that it is traditionally woven using untwisted raw silk.
This is a type of fabric called a “post-degummed” fabric, is woven with the starch glue (sericin) still coating the silk threads, and then degummed after the fabric is woven to remove it. The degumming process after weaving makes the warp and weft threads plump, resulting in a fabric with a unique texture and luster that feels lighter than it appears.

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Kameayaori’s main features are its soft texture, elegant luster, and supple feel, which are achieved by the "refining" process, which involves washing away impurities after weaving.

At its peak, over 30 different types of Kameayaori were woven, but currently there are few historical clues to help us determine what kind of fabric they were, so it is difficult to determine the exact number with certainty. In historical texts, names such as sayagatahishi, ajiroori, kamokameori, and yatsuhashiori remain. These appear to have been names derived from differences in the weaving method (the way the warp and weft are braided, or the structure).

From the Bunsei era of the Edo period, Kameayaori was promoted as a specialty product of the Shinjo domain, but production was temporarily suspended due to the loss of tools during the fires of the Boshin War. Although revival attempts were made through the establishment of vocational schools, production of Kameayaori eventually ceased at the end of the Meiji period, earning it the moniker “The Mythical Textile.”

As part of the Mogami Model Settlement Area project launched in the 1980s, further attempts were made to restore the weaving methods of "Shinjo Kameayaori," a local specialty of the Mogami Region. Through research into remnant fabrics and historical weaving texts, over 10 types of weaving were restored, including the traditional pattern sayagata.

Currently, the Traditional Weaving Association is attempting to further restore traditional weaving patterns while adding new interpretations based on documents believed to have been produced around the Taisho period.

Until recently, only small items made from Kameayaori fabric had been commercialized. Unfortunately since its establishment, the number of weavers at the Association has dwindled from 10 to 3. In the future, the Association plans to increase its staff so that the weavers can concentrate on their weaving tasks and projects. The Association is also currently accepting reservations for the production of custom bolts of kimono or obi fabric made-to-order.